Friday, August 14, 2015
The Vespa
Monday, July 20, 2015
My New Cast
Wednesday, July 15, 2015
The Boots
Friday, July 10, 2015
Some Pictures From Osh
Down along the river is the Bazaar, and it is a teeming place with all types of goods available, from satellite TV receivers and dishes to hand made sickles for harvesting grains and grasses. It once was an important trading place along the Silk Road. There are also other bazaars around town, some of which specialize in certain areas - like electronics. For instance, I wouldn't walk down the aisles and lanes in the Kelechek Bazaar unless all my credit cards were in RFID proof wallets, I had the bluetooth feature on my electronic devices turned off, and had the electronics in an inside pocket. Perhaps a Faraday Cage is a little overkill, but not by much. You can buy anything electronic there, get anything electronic repaired there, and the overall atmosphere in the "repair" area is one of "all your data belongs to us."
So here are some street scenes.
Along the alleys are these little sheds. Some house chicken coops, some house automobiles, and I don't want to know what is in the rest of them.
These cows almost got me killed! A car had to brake and swerve to miss them, and almost hit me. Livestock on roadways is going to get me if I don't watch out. . .
Electrical substation infrastructure.
Some of the front yard areas are really overgrown.
Sidewalk on M41. All the trees and posts are painted white for about the lower four feet.
The residents often build little shops on the front of the apartment buildings.
On the way to the Bazaar, with Sulayman Rock in the background
The Ak Burra River flowing through the Bazaar area.
The Bazaar Gate. You descend down into the Bazaar, covered in awnings, thronged with people, and the heavenly smell of fresh spices occasionally overcoming some of the other less pleasant odors.
Downtown Osh.
Near the market Bazaar.
Near the market, an upstairs restaurant, not yet open for lunch.
Saturday, July 4, 2015
Feeling A Little Better
Here are a few photos to help cheer you up.
First, this is a typical restroom at a gas station on the road from Kazarman to Jalalabad.
Thursday, July 2, 2015
Surgery today
Sunday, June 28, 2015
Quick Update
Saturday, June 27, 2015
Halfway There
My foot is just a mess, red and swollen with brushing at the base of the toes. The rough plaster on the inside of the cast has created sores that hurt worse then the ankle. I am really looking forward both lie-flat seats on Condor tomorrow. I am gonna get me some horizontal tomorrow. In the meantime, I found crutches at the pharmacy at the airport here. only 23 euros! Now I am unsafe at a slightly higher speed.
People are often wonderful, offering to help and helping. This injury may turn some of my curmudgeonly ways around if I don't watch myself. And while the men want to know what happened to cause the injury, women actually help move a bag, or pause so they don't run over me (I am moving like an inch worm, very slowly).
Both Istanbul and Frankfurt are great places to observe people, as both are international hubs. But I think Istanbul has the edge. I mean, where else are you going to run into men dressed like John The Baptist (but with an ID card on a lanyard around their neck)? I should further note that the the rough woven robes worn by these men are actually too clean to be like John, as they are all a very white shade of white But for that (and the ID cards on lanyards,and the eyeglasses), the me look like stylites before they climbed the pole . . .
Friday, June 26, 2015
Hospital Photos
The X-ray room:
Headed Home
I will post pictures of the two days driving over the mountains, once on a moto and once in a 4x4, when I get back to the States. The one picture in this post has taken about twenty minutes to load, and it is still not done. The internets are slow here . . .
I managed to sell the bike at an undervalued price, but that is okay. The sale was easy, but the paper work the next day, Thursday, took four hours. Yes, four. The power of attorney had to be translated from English to Russian, and the bill of sale as well. Then the Notary (also a lawyer) wasn't sure I understood what all the documents meant. So I had to tell him, using Google Translate, that "I want to sell this motorcycle.", "I have sold this motorcycle to John Doe," and so on. He thought that was very good, and accepted my assurances, although he put them in a document in Russian - which I couldn't read. The ID I had with me was also insufficient for his needs, but I had saved copies of my passports in EverNote, so I was able to show him those on my phone. Since they were in color , he approved them, and they copied all the info off the photos of the passport into the documents (by hand). My name was translated into Russian about three different ways, but I didn't tell anyone because I did not want them starting all over again. So, what with waiting, translating, improvising, and waiting, it took four hours from the time I headed downtown to the Notary office until I was done.
When I returned to Biy Ordo I was hot and hungry, as I had missed lunch. So I negotiated a "bif steek" and french fries with sliced tomatoes for a salad to be delivered to the guesthouse. 590 som (about $10) got me a very, very nice sized T-bone and a plateful of fries. It filled the emptiness within me.
While waiting for the dinner to be delivered, I booked my flights and a hotel in Frankfurt at the airport. I also arranged that morning for Daniel to pick me up at 3:00 am on Saturday morning and take me to the airport. Daniel also helped me by taking me to the bazaar to buy a suitcase. To help this Chinese designed (with help from Samsonite) and manufactured suitcase retain its structural integrity, I will have it wrapped at the airport in that plastic stuff. It is full. My riding suit is not going to make it back to Alaska. It is dirty, ripped, torn, patched, and very abused. It served me well and protected me from pigs and taxi cab drivers, but there us just no room to bring it. It turns out that I should have bought a larger suitcase to accommodate everything.
With only about twelve hours before I leave, I am a little sorry to be leaving Kyrgyzstan. The people I have met are wonderful, especially the Kyrgyz people who have been so helpful. Likewise the the other travelers, like Mag and Flo, a french couple, and John from Michigan, Lucas the Crazy Brazilian, the Four Aussie Bikers, and on and on. Also, I didn't get a picture of Issy Kul for Romaniac, and he will have something to say about that. I didn't see Song Kul, which I really want to see, and I'm sorry about that, as well as the ride through the Altai Mountains on M52, and riding through Mongolia and down to the Gobi Desert. Those adventures will have to wait, but I am happy with what I was able to do and see. If you had told me three years ago I would be riding a motorcycle along the Silk Road, I would have thought you were crazy. On the other hand, if I had told you three years ago that I was going to ride the Silk Road on a motorcycle, you would have thought I was crazy. As it turned out, it looks like we are all crazy.
Pictures coming when I get home . . .
Monday, June 22, 2015
An Afternoon At The Hospital
It seemed prudent to check out the sprain, ad there was a lot of lividity today at the bottom of my foot, and my lower leg was swelling. So with the assistance of the lady who runs the guesthouse and her younger sister and another woman who drove us and some children, we went to the hospital. I could tell it was a hospital because there were serious looking people wearing white lab coats, and tall hats.
Up three flights of stairs and down the hall, then stand in the hall and wait. Surely a hospital. Then back down three flights of stairs, and back up one to another hall and wait. Yup, its a hospital. But clearly not an American hospital because there were no six month old magazines to peruse.
There was a mob at a door, which somehow triaged itself. After waiting awhile, we went back downstairs to another line. Eventually, I was admitted to an X-ray room. Two machines, a lady in a lab coat ( no hat), and after several minutes she took two X-rays. Back upstairs to wait. Then the word came it was broken and I had to go back and talk to the X-ray lady.
Sure enough, the fibula was broken right above the tarsus. We talked about that for awhile and then after paying 2400 soms (roughly $40) and being told not to walk on it, it was walk back upstairs to wait.
The doctor was a nice man, who looked at the X-ray, examined the foot, sent me into the other room for casting, and came in when they started casting to supervise. He told me not to walk on it, and that he wants to see it tomorrow, and posed for a picture. I paid 600 soms (roughly $10) for the exam and cast. Total was $50, and two hours. And lots of walking.
I'm looking for a stick, but not seeing anything around. And that outhouse is still 25 meters away.
Logistical issues abound, and I will address them after I figure out how to (a) kill the fly that has taken up a high speed orbit around my bed, and (b) get back from the outhouse.
As my sister Merri said recently, "cloud, meet silver lining.". Wait, that's the wrong cliche.
Saturday, June 20, 2015
Kazarman
I made it to Kazarman just before noon today, and now at 1:40 the thunder us rolling and the skies are black. The forecast is for rain throughout the week. Uh oh.
I twisted and sprained my right ankle this morning in a fall as I was leaving my campsite. I will post about yesterday's ride along with pictures when I get to Bishkek.
Fortunately, about 20 minutes after I fell, I met Patrik from MuzToo with his group of riders, one of whom was a sports medicine physician. He looked at it and gave me an anti-inflammatory and told me to wrap it when I took the boot off.
I've done that, showered, had some tea, and now I am going to rest. Mother Nature's bosom was rocky and hard last night, and I have some sore spots that need rest.
Sorry for no pictures, because the country is beautiful. The Kyrgy people have an amazing place in which to live, and be proud of it.
Thursday, June 18, 2015
Leaving Osh
Battery Is In, Bike Is Running
The bike is looking well used. Outside storage did not do it any favors. The chain needs to be hand oiled, and I will do that in the morning when I can get it out to a gas station and refuel. Likewise it needs air in the front tire, another reason the steering is off. After fuel, air, and oiling the chain, it will be good for another few thousand kilometers.
The inReach will be active starting tomorrow, so you can follow along as I head into the interior of Kyrgyzstan. It is supposed to be a beautiful ride, and I am looking forward to it.
Wednesday, June 17, 2015
The Battery Is Here
Tuesday, June 16, 2015
The Battery Has Arrived In Osh
Sunday, June 14, 2015
The Saga of the Battery - Updated June 16
A wet battery is going to have a hard time in these hot climates, as the heat and use tends to boil the battery, and you must top it off with distilled water frequently. As Romainiac pointed out, in his comment, accessing the battery on a BMW G650GS is a somewhat time consuming chore, as one must detach the right front turn signal, remove the right cowling cover, remove the top cowling cover, and loosen the left cowling cover. The battery is then visible, and you can remove the retaining strap and the battery ground to service it. I'm not sure where I could source distilled water in the deserts or mountains, as I didn't pack my still (I think a still is like a drone in that you don't want to be crossing borders with one in your luggage. But I hope someone proves me wrong and writes about it). In my view, I definitely needed a gel battery.
So, having decided on a gel battery, where should I get it? MuzToo advised just bringing one along. I decided against it for two reasons. First, I would have to find one in Washington or Baltimore or Virginia, after which I would have to take a cab to get it and bring it back to the hotel. Second, I would have to convince two foreign national airlines that a wet cell battery was permissible in the cabin, as I was no way going to check it. I projected the odds of Turkish Airlines letting me on board their aircraft with a battery as no chance at all, and British Airways as nope. So I contacted Don Rosene at The Motorcycle Shop in Anchorage, and asked for him to ship me one.
Don is a great guy, and he immediately stepped up. The battery was delivered to DHL on Friday afternoon in Anchorage. They hassled Don about accepting it, but when they read the regulations they did accept it, and told Don it should be in Osh by Thursday, June 11. That was great news, since I was arriving Tuesday early in the morning, and wouldn't even be ready to think about a battery until Wednesday afternoon. I proceeded on my way.
The battery did not arrive on Thursday, so I checked the airbill number through DHL's online tracking system. Wow. The battery did not leave anchorage until Monday afternoon. It's routing after that is inexplicable. Here is what it looked like:
Track DHL Express Shipments
Here’s the fastest way to check the status of your shipment. No need to call Customer Service – our online results give you real-time, detailed progress as your shipment speeds through the DHL network.
Result Summary
Waybill: 2193827565 Departed Facility in LONDON- HEATHROW - UK Sign up for shipment notifications
Sunday, June 14, 2015 at 08:20
Origin Service Area:
ANCHORAGE, AK - ANCHORAGE - USA Destination Service Area: BISHKEK - OSH - KYRGYZSTAN
Estimated Delivery:
Friday, June 19, 2015 By End of Day 1 Piece
English Contact Center Country Profile
|
||||
Sunday, June 14, 2015
|
Location
|
Time
|
Piece
|
|
37
|
Departed Facility in LONDON-HEATHROW -
UK
|
LONDON-HEATHROW - UK
|
08:20
|
1 Piece
|
36
|
Processed at LONDON-HEATHROW - UK
|
LONDON-HEATHROW - UK
|
05:24
|
1 Piece
|
Saturday, June 13, 2015
|
Location
|
Time
|
Piece
|
|
35
|
Arrived at Sort Facility LONDON-
HEATHROW - UK
|
LONDON-HEATHROW - UK
|
06:27
|
1 Piece
|
34
|
Departed Facility in LONDON-HEATHROW -
UK
|
LONDON-HEATHROW - UK
|
05:21
|
1 Piece
|
33
|
Transferred through LONDON-HEATHROW
- UK
|
LONDON-HEATHROW - UK
|
04:34
|
1 Piece
|
32
|
Departed Facility in LEIPZIG - GERMANY
|
LEIPZIG - GERMANY
|
04:22
|
1 Piece
|
31
|
Processed at LEIPZIG - GERMANY
|
LEIPZIG - GERMANY
|
02:08
|
1 Piece
|
30
|
Arrived at Sort Facility LEIPZIG - GERMANY
|
LEIPZIG - GERMANY
|
01:18
|
1 Piece
|
29
|
Departed Facility in MILAN - MALPENSA -
ITALY
|
MILAN - MALPENSA - ITALY
|
00:16
|
1 Piece
|
28
|
Transferred through MILAN - MALPENSA -
ITALY
|
MILAN - MALPENSA - ITALY
|
00:15
|
1 Piece
|
Friday, June 12, 2015
|
Location
|
Time
|
Piece
|
|
27
|
Departed Facility in BUCHAREST -
ROMANIA
|
BUCHAREST - ROMANIA
|
20:12
|
1 Piece
|
26
|
Processed at BUCHAREST - ROMANIA
|
BUCHAREST - ROMANIA
|
20:11
|
1 Piece
|
25
|
Arrived at Sort Facility BERGAMO - ITALY
|
BERGAMO - ITALY
|
03:47
|
1 Piece
|
24
|
Departed Facility in LEIPZIG - GERMANY
|
LEIPZIG - GERMANY
|
02:06
|
1 Piece
|
Thursday, June 11, 2015
|
Location
|
Time
|
Piece
|
|
23
|
Processed at LEIPZIG - GERMANY
|
LEIPZIG - GERMANY
|
23:32
|
1 Piece
|
22
|
Arrived at Sort Facility LEIPZIG - GERMANY
|
LEIPZIG - GERMANY
|
23:13
|
1 Piece
|
21
|
Departed Facility in FRANKFURT -
GERMANY
|
FRANKFURT - GERMANY
|
15:05
|
1 Piece
|
20
|
Transferred through FRANKFURT -
GERMANY
|
FRANKFURT - GERMANY
|
15:03
|
1 Piece
|
19
|
Arrived at Sort Facility FRANKFURT -
GERMANY
|
FRANKFURT - GERMANY
|
14:01
|
1 Piece
|
18
|
Departed Facility in LONDON-HEATHROW -
UK
|
LONDON-HEATHROW - UK
|
10:59
|
1 Piece
|
17
|
Transferred through LONDON-HEATHROW
- UK
|
LONDON-HEATHROW - UK
|
08:26
|
1 Piece
|
16
|
Departed Facility in EAST MIDLANDS - UK
|
EAST MIDLANDS - UK
|
05:22
|
1 Piece
|
15
|
Shipment on hold
|
EAST MIDLANDS - UK
|
05:05
|
1 Piece
|
14
|
Processed at EAST MIDLANDS - UK
|
EAST MIDLANDS - UK
|
02:45
|
1 Piece
|
Wednesday, June 10, 2015
|
Location
|
Time
|
Piece
|
|
13
|
Arrived at Sort Facility EAST MIDLANDS -
UK
|
EAST MIDLANDS - UK
|
23:07
|
1 Piece
|
12
|
Departed Facility in LONDON-HEATHROW -
UK
|
LONDON-HEATHROW - UK
|
20:13
|
1 Piece
|
Tuesday, June 09, 2015
|
Location
|
Time
|
Piece
|
|
11
|
Processed at LONDON-HEATHROW - UK
|
LONDON-HEATHROW - UK
|
23:04
|
1 Piece
|
10
|
Arrived at Sort Facility LONDON-
HEATHROW - UK
|
LONDON-HEATHROW - UK
|
22:41
|
1 Piece
|
9
|
Departed Facility in EAST MIDLANDS - UK
|
EAST MIDLANDS - UK
|
19:47
|
1 Piece
|
8
|
Transferred through EAST MIDLANDS - UK
|
EAST MIDLANDS - UK
|
19:46
|
1 Piece
|
7
|
Departed Facility in CINCINNATI HUB - USA
|
CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA
|
06:19
|
1 Piece
|
6
|
Processed at CINCINNATI HUB - USA
|
CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA
|
05:43
|
1 Piece
|
5
|
Arrived at Sort Facility CINCINNATI HUB -
USA
|
CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA
|
05:24
|
1 Piece
|
Monday, June 08, 2015
|
Location
|
Time
|
Piece
|
|
4
|
Departed Facility in ANCHORAGE - USA
|
ANCHORAGE, AK - USA
|
15:45
|
1 Piece
|
3
|
Processed at ANCHORAGE - USA
|
ANCHORAGE, AK - USA
|
15:44
|
1 Piece
|
2
|
Shipment Accepted
|
ANCHORAGE, AK - USA
|
10:20
|
1 Piece
|
Friday, June 05, 2015
|
Location
|
Time
|
Piece
|
|
1 Shipment information received ANCHORAGE, AK - USA 07:58
|
I was amazed. I couldn't understand it. And when I first read it, I misunderstood and thought the package was going to be delivered Friday, June 12. It wasn't until much later I realized that it was saying Friday June 19th.
On the DHL Contact us page, there is a picture of a nice smiling man, and the caption says he is Mike Parra, CEO of DHL USA, and that he wanted to hear about compliments and complaints. I decided to take him up on that, and emailed him.
A few hours later I received a nice email from a person with the title Executive Response and Social Customer Care. The person apologized and let me know they were on it. Someone, they said, would be reaching out to me as soon as possible. That email came in at 7:48 p.m. local time on June 13. It is now 11:43 p.m (as I write this) on June 15, local time. Granted, this is Central Asia, where clocks and calendars have a certain charming flexibility about them, and granting further that there is nothing anyone can ostensibly do here until their colleagues and co-workers get to the office on Monday morning in Western Europe, which is still several hours away. However, my faith in DHL has ebbed again, after having been raised when I first received the emails from the Executive Response and Social Customer Care person.
That faith has ebbed because the battery sat in London again for 26 hours from 4:34 a.m. on June 13 through 8:40 a.m. June 14. Surely there is a reason for this, but it certainly escapes me.
I will update this when I can learn more from DHL, but that is the story so far.
JUNE 16 UPDATE
As of 1:35 p.m. local time, the battery has landed in Bishkek. It may be in Osh as early as tomorrow, but probably later this week. I would bet on later this week.