"If you think adventure is dangerous, try routine; it's lethal." - Paul Coelho

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Ajaccio to Bonafacio

After a cold water shave, I got on the road, N196, to Bonafacio. Laurent and Karen passed me on the way to their hike. N196 is a good road, and it has it's twisty parts too. Sometimes it was on the coast with spectacular views of the Med and adjacent headlands, sometimes inland, with occasional views of the deep mountain valleys and steep hillsides. There is a beautiful and simple modern bridge at Ponte Vecchio of which you catch glimpses as you approach. Further on, Olmeto hangs on a hillside, with N196 running right through it. The street is too narrow for two-way traffic, so there is a traffic signal that governs which direction the traffic flows. Locals seem to ignore this traffic control device. 

I took some pictures of it from Propriano, down on the beach. When I was taking the picture, I saw the first black speedo I've seen (other than TV coverage of the Olympics) in several decades. Still not a good sight. 

For some reason, N196 runs right through Propriano's downtown and marina area, as a one way street. People just stand and look at the traffic. I'm not sure they actually see it, though, as some of them just walk right into the middle of it. I can't understand where all the old people I see come from, as everyone seems to have a death wish here. 

As I climbed into the hills before Sartene, it started to rain. As I reached the edges of town, it was a torrential downpour. There was a celebration of some kind going on, the center of town was closed to traffic, and there was a traffic jam. I missed a hard right, uphill turn and got stuck for several minutes until I could get back into the traffic flow. Up hill, pouring rain, and a traffic light that was demented. A little further, when the road leveled out, I stopped and enjoyed the sound of the rain on my helmet. 

It cleared up for awhile, but I could see the rain ahead. It rained almost all the rest of the way to Bonafacio. I needed gas, so I rode into the town. There is a citadel on the hill above the town, Roy d'Aragon takes credit for it. It is striking in its presence and command of the town, the harbor, and the coast. After several loops around, I rode back up out of town to the Trinite Campground, where I took a place for two nights. I needed to dry out, so I took a bungalow where I could get out of the weather, dry my clothes, and gave a chair with a back. C'est bon. 


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