My goal for the day was to visit Aphrodisias, and after that, the World Heritage site at Hierapolis - Pamukkale. It wasn't a great distance to travel, so I took my time. There were some long straight stretches, and they can get boring, but there is always something to see. The road became lined by orchards, and there were workers in the fields and orchards doing farming things. Or perhaps they were just drinking tea. Later on, after visiting Aphrodisias, I came upon a great number of people sitting around under a stand of pines having a great time. But I'm getting ahead of myself. I will summarize by saying that both the natural countryside with green trees and hills, and the agriculture I saw, were very pleasant to my eye.
The little road to Aphrodisias was a chip seal two lane with little traffic. And of course, vegetation right up to the shoulder, of which there was none. I enjoyed it, as it was just fun to sit and move with the bike. No stress. Until, of course, I get to the junction where I am supposed to find Aphrodisias, and there is a light, a road to the right with a red and white pole barrier, a road to the left with a sign that says Parking, and a couple of tractors pulling wagons with seats in them. What I figured out was that you pay to park, then they take you in the wagon to the site, where you pay to go in the site. So I did.
Before I got there, I decided I needed some cash, so I asked Mr. Garmin to look for an ATM for me. I was stopped in a little town, Geyre. Mr. G said the closest place was 28.9 kilometers in some direction, so I decided to ride on. As I pulled away from the curb, I saw an ATM about 50 meters away. I stopped, got some cash, and took some pictures. The old guy really wanted his picture taken.
This site is being worked by New York University in conjunction with the Turkish Government. Most of the buildings being resorted are below the current grade (level of earth) as the city was abandoned in the middle ages. There are a couple of outstanding ruins however, including the stadium, the theater, Hadrian's Bath, and a large pool below Hadrian's Bath. The temple of Aphrodite, which was converted to a church, is also very good. However, it is clear that this site lacks funding, as the site is overgrown with weeds. I predict that will change soon, as they are upgrading the road from the other direction (from Tavas) so it can support more tourism.
A few photos.
The stadium. They had gladiator fights here, and there is a cemetery for gladiators as well.
Athletes have to enter from somewhere. Why not a tunnel?
And maybe have a changing room to get rid of those bloody clothes.
It was almost like being in a gladiator movie, according to Frank Powers (Frank was a big Victor Mature fan).
Hadrian's Bath.
Not Hadrian, but a manly man. Not Frank Powers either.
The area leafing from Hadrian's Bath to the elliptical pool.
The pool. They are in a project to remove all the dirt and material that has filled in the pool over the centuries. It was a beautiful structure with fountains. It is quite large.
After I left the site, I had lunch at a nearby cafe, then headed toward Tavas. Her the road climbs quite a bit, and I was soon in hills covered with pine. I started noticing that the Turks are planting a lot of trees. There are areas where the trees are growing naturally, but I noticed then, and heave seen much more of this since, that there are many, many plantings. The rows cover hillsides, reach down to valley floors, and line roadways. It looks like the planting has been going on for quite some time, several years at least.
Then 24 kilometers west of Tavas, I almost bought it again. The farm that is. I'm riding up hill in third gear, gentle turn to my left, but no clear sight lines to the exit. Suddenly, I see coming down hill towards me, kind of on the shoulder but there wasn't much of one, was a motorcycle, with a side car made of a square steel box, ridden by a man with no helmut, laughing deliriously, while a child kneeled in the steel box shouting with joy while gripping the front of that box/sidecar with both little hands. So far, not a problem, until the Renault appears from nowhere, overtaking the man and child enjoying their Sunday ride in the death mobile, but in my lane. He could see them, wanted to avoid them, so he crossed into the oncoming lane where I was. Why do they do this to me? I have a stress test at the doctor's office when he says I need one. I don't need to have them on the road in Turkey. But someone should let Dr. Makin know I passed this one too.
Why do I know it was 24 kilometers from Tavas? That's what it said on the sign I almost hit.
After that was when I saw the people under the trees. There were many of them, well over a hundred. Lots of cars, trucks, and some more mottos with those steel box side cars. ABOut two kilometers after that, it started to rain again. For about twenty minutes I had a steady downpour, and the roads were slick. It was dicey going downhill on wet, mud-slicked chip seal on knobby tires, but we made it.
After Tavas, the road was four lane into Denizli. It was flat at first, then suddenly the road was on the side of a hill and we were dropping into a huge, very deep valley. Finally it leveled out, crossed the floor of that valley, ran along the side of it for awhile, then were turned another corner and were going down into another huge deep valley. They were very beautiful, deep and green, and the roads were good, although fairly steep. And had radar traps on them again. The road finally turned again, and I could see Denizli below. My first impressions were very good, but that city seemed to go on forever. I finally for through it and on to Pamukkale.
It was raining on me there, and it was there I suffered the insult. My right eye still smarts!
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