Central Anatolia and Cappadocia

Central Anatolia sits as a high plateau bounded by mountains.  Konya, a principal city in the southern portion of Central Anatolia, was capital of the Seljuk Turks' Sultanate of Rum.  Just to the east lies the fantastical geological area of Cappadocia (also spelled Capadocia, and several other phonetic variations, with the locals pronouncing the last "c" as a hard "k" sound.).  When you first approach the geological features for which it is known, the eroded plateaus and cliffs, and rock capped spires, you might think you have been transported to Tatooine, from Star Wars, or perhaps the Badlands of the Dakotas, or perhaps a paler version of Bryce Canyon, or Goblin Valley State Park in Utah.  Each of these places is beautiful, and each are excellent examples of geological formations caused by erosion.  What sets Cappadocia apart in my mind is that here, the early inhabitants actually dug into the formations and used them for buildings.  They actually inhabited the geologic formations, as well as the valley walls.

Cappadocia's early dwellers used their tunnels and caves as burial grounds (Roman's and Christians), forts (everybody), underground cities (Christians), churches (Christians), and for every imaginable purpose.  Today, for example, potatoes and citrus fruits are still stored in underground caverns to allow them to reach maturity before marketing them.  Many visitors, however, come to see some of the more than 3,000 early churches found in these structures in Cappadocia.  Some of the best examples of these churches are found in the Göreme Open Air Museum, where no photography is allowed inside the churches.  In my view, the absolutely best example is the Dark Church, where the absence of light has left the frescoes almost as bright as when they were applied.  It is worth every bit of the extra 10 TK (roughly $5.00) to see these and marvel at the frescoes and the artists' skill in applying them.

Göreme is the center of the National Park, and it is there that most people go to see the sites.  Göreme is laid back compared to Istanbul, and the almost total absence of shills and hawkers is very refreshing.  There are many Cave Hotels, featuring rooms in the caves carved into the spires.  They range from top end luxury to not so good.  The one I am in, The Fairy Chimney Inn, is perfect for me.  They emphasize personal service, and accommodating anything you want to do.  And their breakfasts are awesome!

In Göreme, they (tour operators) have organized their tour offerings into four tours, each starting from Göreme and covering a quadrant of Cappadocia centered on Nevsehir, the provincial center.  Although I have not been on a tour since 2009, I decided to optimize my experience, I should try it again.  I chose the Green Tour, which covers the Southwest quadrant, and included an underground city and some churches, and a walk through a valley.  Including lunch, an English speaking guide, an air-conditioned bus with Wi-Fi, and entry to all the venues, I thought the price of 120TL was reasonable.  I had a good time, and saw things and had them explained to me that I otherwise would have missed.

There are too many photos to upload them all, so here are just a few.

The Underground City of Derinkuyu

Inhabited by Christians, very deep, they could fortify themselves inside the city from invaders.

The connecting tunnels were very narrow.

Cross engraved in wall at the site of the church

The church, from the entrance facing the nave.

The nave of the church.