Sultanhani Caravansary

Riding out of Konya in the morning, I was to find road construction intermittently all the way to Neveshir.  But oh my, was the road straight all the way to Aksaray.  It is flat and straight, bordered with fields both under cultivation and not.

The road went up a beautiful, gentle 1130 meter pass, straight as an arrow, and gently down the other side, which finally took me to Sultanhani and the caravansary.  Built by the Seljuks, it is well preserved, and only 3 lira to enter.  The courtyard holds a small, square mosque, and the walls contain smallish dark rooms.  In the rear is a vaulted covered area which was used as a stable and warehouse during the winter months.  I was on the western end of the Silk Road.

The mosque in the courtyard.

There are rooms to the right of this arched passage way.

From the door to the covered portion of the caravansary, there are three vaulted bays.  

Details of the center of the arches.

Exterior wall with guard towers.

After leaving Sultanhani, the road was level for quite awhile, but then rose quote rapidly near and after Aksaray.  It also became much more arid, and as I arrived in Nevsehir, it was clearly desert.

Nevsehir held little attraction, so I rode on to Göreme, which was to become the center of my stay in Capadocia.  I parked my moto in a lot new the center of town, and walked to a bench near a table at which a couple of about my age were seated.  I noticed that the man was wearing a University of Washington lanyard around his neck, and a LeMay Museum cap.  Conversation ensued about both of those places, and we had a pleasant conversation.  But I needed a place to stay, and a cup of coffee, but not in that order.

Nearby was the Coffeedocia coffee house, free wifi and all.  A short while later I had had my coffee, a sandwich, and found the Fairy Chimney Inn.  Well, I had booked the Inn on-line, but actually finding it was a bit more of a challenge.  After booking, the reservation, I entered the address in Mr. Garmin, climbed on the moto, and followed directions, which took me o the edge of town, and told me I was there, that the Inn was in a rocky field across the street.  Of course not.  As I sat on the bike, with a thunder storm fast approaching, two young men on a Honda 250 dirt bike rode up and stopped.  They had seen me in town, and wanted to get a closer look at the bike.  So we talked about bikes (his was brand new), boots (he liked mine and wanted to buy some just like them), and what was I doing.  Not being too proud to admit I was having trouble finding my hotel, he asked to see the address, and motioned me to flow him.

Keeping up with two teenagers on a 250cc dirt bike over twisty cobblestone streets uphill in Göreme was right at the limits of my skill set.  In fact, they had to stop twice to let me catch up.  But they were spot on in finding the place, and it is a joy for me to still be here.

First of all, the place is managed and run by a family, with the help of some in-laws.  And they are all about providing service.  They were very welcoming, offering tea, and just urging me to relax and take a few minutes before they showed me my room.  Shortly, Yuksel Demirci, the manager showed up, and introduced me to the area.  A marvelous man, and a truly good guide, we went over what was available to see and do in the surrounding areas.  Then they showed me to my room, and I was hooked on this place.

See that bedspread?  It has sequins!  At night, the sequins sparkle!  Can't get lost in there, you always know where the bed is!  And see that settee on the right under the windows?  Comfortable, very comfortable.  The ceiling is vaulted, and the bath is in a cave.  Great place.  And the breakfasts are great, too.

It is very possible to find a more luxurious cave hotel, but I think this one suits me very well.  Excellent service, excellent breakfast, wonderful hosts/staff, and very accommodating.  Oh yes, and a terrace.  Here are some views from the Inn.