The Professor Gul left late, of course, at about 1:30 am instead of at 11:00 pm. Turns out it didn't matter, because when we arrived offshore from Turkmenbashi I heard the clatter of the anchor chain. The President of Turkmenistan was in town for his birthday, so they closed the port. So we spent the night and the most of the following day at anchor, finally getting under way at about 2:00.
The entire voyage was as smooth as I've ever been on. It was very calm, for which I was grateful. Remember that toilet? Turns out it was a non-functioning appliance, which had not deterred previous occupants from urinating in it. The smell was bad enough, but if that thing had slopped over I would have been "angry."
Met a group of young students returning to their homes in Turkmenistan from university in Baku. They practiced their English on me, and they got me breakfast on the second day. Very nice young men.
Of course when we arrived in port at 5:30 pm, another ferry came in at the same time. There was no queue. Some people kept jumping the line, to the frustration of everyone else. Turns out they were brining guards off in the distance who then signaled the guard at the door to let them in. These guards are all very young. It is sad to realize that corruption is taught these young people so early in their carreer. How can Turkmenistan fully emerge as a country when corruption is ingrained so early in a government career? But most of the Turkmen I met were very nice, smiling, polite. Of which, more later.
I finally got inside, and only with the help of my guide, Dima, was I able to get out of there by 11:30. I think I went to 8 or 9 windows, including twice to "the bank." I was the last one out, even after the truck drivers. I followed Dima to the hotel, and got 6 hours sleep before we left the next morning.
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