Khiva

In Turkmenistan, Dima (the guide) told me that in Turkmenistan, the approach to antiquities is to conserve, but in Uzbekistan, the approach is to restore.  Thus, in Këneurgench, the antiquities remain simply that, the and actual antiquity.  In the Old City of Khiva, Uzbekistan, they have been restoring the ancient city and fortress, and the difference os noticeable.  I hasten to point out that the Old City is surrounded by a thriving, bustling metropolitan and agricultural area, including universities.

Without going into the history of Khiva, it should suffice to say that it, too, was an important city on the Silk Road, played a significant role in The Great Game (see, e.g., Peter Hopkirk's book of that name), and was subject to the "influences" of Timur The Lame and Genghis Khan.

You have seen some very poor snapshots of roads in and near the Old City.  Here are some photos, in no particular order, rhyme, or reason, of some buildings in the Old City.

One of the Gates to the Old City.  

An Active Madrasa

Entrance to an old madrasa now used as a museum

From a rooftop.  Notice the wall at the lower left, as they have tried to keep it in the condition imposed by time, the elements, and gravity.

I loved walking in the bazaar.  This lady sold me a bar of soap, and was very pleased that I asked to take her picture.  All of the nearby stall holders gave her a hard time about that . . .

I found the butcher shops to be of interest.  The meats were hanging from hooks on a bar right inside the doorway.  There was a balance scale on a table, with various sized weights on the table as well.  A customer told the butcher what and how much they wanted, and haggled over a price, then the butcher grabbed the appropriate hunk of meat and carved off a hunk and threw it in the scale, measuring it with his weights.  There was no obvious refrigeration present.  And if you like the smell of raw meat, as I do, this was a good place to hang out.  YOU can also see some fat from the meat on the counter to the left of the scale, also offered for sale.

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