The Air Mattress And Me

I've never been fond of air mattresses. They have always let me down. Literally. The Big Agness mattress I'm using on this trip has proved the rule. 

In 2012, I used a thermarest when I took my 9000 mile trip. It worked well, but it is bulky. So in 2013, I switched to a Big Agness sleeping bag and air mattress. The reason was two-fold. The BA bag has a pouch in which the mattress slides. This keeps you always on top of the mattress, and reduces bulk in the bag. The second reason is that deflated, the mattress takes about as much space as a one liter water bottle. Quite a bit less than the thinest thermarest. 

A few nights ago I woke up on the ground. The mattress was flat. I've been trying to find the leaks and fix it since then. Yesterday I finally drowned the thing in a utility sink and found the leaks. Today  I attempted repairs. I will find out in a few hours if I was successful. If not, I'll try again. 

It's not just that the ground is hard (it is), but it is still cold as well. Sleeping on cold and hard ground leads to a bad experience. When I was younger, I slept out quite a bit, but that was 46-8 years ago. I'm no longer that resilient. 

In fact, I remember quite distinctly in 1969 while camping in a tent in the rain at Ipsut Creek Campground that I vowed to not sleep on the ground again. That vow led to the acquisition of the old '61 VW van into which I built the camper. That camper certainly kept me off the ground and out of wet tents as Karin and I drove it around the continental USA in the summer of '72. I may be ready for something similar once I'm done with this trip. Or even before then. 

Expedition grade equipment is really difficult to find. Moreover, it is generally heavy, because expeditions are usually 4 wheel vehicle based. When you ride bikes or motos, weight really matters. So I bought good quality gear. Looks like I should have found something tougher. At least I know that when all else fails, I have my USMC poncho liner to fall back on. Actually, it's not really a poncho liner. It's whatever they issue now instead of a poncho liner or shelter-half. If you don't know what a shelter-half is, you are not Old Corps. (Inside joke for Marines. Semper Fi). 

I Need Two

I need two of these. It holds the right side bar end and hand guard on. This one is bent. I have put in a shorter bolt until I can find at least one of these.  I'm Forever breaking up the right side of the handlebar. Bad Dan. 

The Restaurant at the Campground

They opened the restaurant at the campground today. 

I think I will have dinner here tonight with a full salad. This place is really very nice. 

Nice

I rode to Nice to check out the ferry terminal. It took an hour to get there. There is no direct route. There is only an indirect, convoluted, crazy-driver-populated route. French drivers are very goal oriented, and what you want to do or intend to do is simply not relevant to them. 

Also, the wind is up, and kicking dust and pollen and debris right about eyeball level. This was very irritating, too, but I survived. 

The ferry terminal is in the port, which is in the older part of town. The roads around the port are narrow, and front fairly tall buildings, creating a canyon effect. Of course the ground floor of many of these buildings have restaurants, which spill tables and patrons across the sidewalk and encroach on the roadway. Pedestrians are everywhere, and it just gets crazy from there. It reminded me of an anthill being stirred by a stick. I left. All the ants dissuaded me from trying to find a museum, much less a parking space. 

The traffic going back was quite a bit worse for awhile. Then it cleared up and was pleasant. I found a cash machine (the one in the village where I am camped is broken), and then a little cafe. 

In the cafe, I pointed to something that had a sign that read "burger."  I was delighted to find (and taste) when it arrived at my table that it had sautéed mushrooms and a meat that was like that found in a traditional gyro, with a similar sauce, lettuce and tomatoes. It was, as my grandson Oskar says, "deelishus."  I will try to duplicate it when I return home. 

I heard today from STANtours that the letter of introduction has been issued for Turkmenistan, but the visa is held up because the consul went on holiday. But everything is on track. 

Just one little note on current French fashion. Tight leggings are being worn by many, many women. Sometimes they are worn with a skirt, some skirts (many) shorter than others, and sometimes they are worn with a long shirt or tunic. Sometimes, they are just worn. However. Tights are not flattering on every body type, including mine. I have in mind a woman easily as old as me, wearing olive green tights, tan boots, and a dark green tunic. Peter Pan?  Tinkerbelle?  And my legs were better than hers. 

So, no more Fench fashion reports. I won't even mention that men are still wearing purses here. It's France. 

A Day Of Rest

Before I did any touring, I decided to take a day and rest. So I sat around in the sun, and shade when I got too hot, and rested and meditated. I agree with those who have told me how fortunate I am to be able to do this trip, very little could make it better (setting aside the consequences of the prostate cancer surgery).  I look forward to meeting Meredith in Italy, though, so I at least have someone with whom I can converse. My 50+ year old high school French can only take me so far. 

Right now I'm down in the village having a coffee outside a Tabac and The (tea) shop. The guy to my left is on more than his first beer, and someone upwind is smoking dope. Yes, that kind of place. And I just almost was run into by a woman coming to meet the beer drinker. C'est la vie. But she just brought me the wallet I dropped inside, so they must sense my inner brother John Mark. 

Tomorrow I think I will make a run to the ferry terminal in Nice to scope it out, then take in some museums. At least it is a plan. 

Now Bryan, come rent a bike for the Dalmatian Coast, Greece and Turkey part of the ride. No visas needed, and you will be back in time for Wells' sentencing. Think of it!  Sun! Beaches! Retsina!  Just kidding about the Retsina, that stuff tastes horrible. And I can hook you up with a guy in either Bulgaria or Germany to rent the bike. There. That was the sound of the gauntlet hitting the ground. 

Dinner tonight will be a hard salami, a baguette, and a tomato. I am also going to do laundry. 

The Mediterranean At Last

If you get a map and follow DN7 from Aix-en-Provence to Antibe, that is the route I rode today. Parts of the country reminded me of the Hill Country in central Texas with cap-rock, limestone, reddish earth, pine trees and oaks. There were done olive trees, too, although much larger than those in the olive grove started recently just outside Wimberley, Texas. Of course the main difference is the only pick-up truck I saw today was am old VW from the sixties. 

I made it to within view of the Med shortly after 1:00. The previous hour I spent on DN7 between Fréjus and Cannes, a not very wiggly red line on the map, but which is a delightful two lane twisty road over two minor cols. The surrounding country was pretty rugged, kind of like the cedar breaks under the Mogollon Rim in Arizona. Or like a tidal chop where there is no distinct orientation to the geographical features. Sure was pretty with the various shades of green, the sun and deep shadow, and the red earth. 

I then spent about the next two hours in stop stop go stop traffick through Cannes, Golfe-Juan, and Antibes. A beautiful but breezy morning had turned into a cloudy and windy afternoon. I suppose that is what kept the beautiful people indoors. Or somewhere other than where I was. Of course, maybe the dirt on the knees of my jeans and the bug scarred leather jacket put them off. Regardless, I didn't see them. 

So I'm camped up at La Colle sur Loup for a few days. I plan to see sme sights, a church or two, a medieval village, and some museums.  

Not Too Bad A Day

I had a late start today, drying out gear from last night's heavy rain. It started just after I had the tent up (about 5:30) and lasted until almost midnight. But it was a glorious morning, and I was dry by 11:00. 

After my breakfast of coffee, croissant and pain de chocolate, I headed across the Rhone and down to Avignon. A nice ride through the countryside, and through some beautiful cities. Montélimar and Orange in particular were nice with tree lined boulevards and shops set back under the trees. 

At Avignon, I paid 4€ so I could walk on the bridge and sing the old song about sur la pont, d'Avignon, etc. In honor of my brother, Robb, I danced a jig while I sang. This was met with discouraging looks by passers-by and stand-abouts. 

Avignon is the City of Popes, and this shot is of a rampart and tower below the Castle of the Popes. 

In the walls surrounding the old inner city, there are very narrow embrasures or slits made in the shape of the cross. Beautiful. 

I rode on to Aix-en-Provence, promptly got lost, and asked Mr. Garmin to find me a campsite. Here it is:

Tomorrow I am going to try and find a really nice campsite near Nice where I can rest up for Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily. Maybe I can find a good French meal, too. 

 

Escargot On The Hoof!

Murder in Abrest

There is a murder of crows just across the river from the campground. They are fortunate I am unarmed. 

An Evening in Abrest

Or, as my old friend Bob Griffin would say, keeping you abreast of my time in Abrest. 

Abrest is south of Vichy (where I got turned completely around) on road D906. Not much is actually happening here, except the sun is finally coming out after a day of riding through wind and rain showers. Actually, quite a bit of both in Lapalisse, where I stopped at a boulangerie for lunch. The lunch place was right below the chateau there, which is a pretty formidable building. 

I started the day by riding through beautiful vineyards on the way from Beaune to the Chateau Le Rochepot. It doesn't open until April 30, so I didn't get to tour or even take pictures. It was certainly beautiful in the glimpses I got from the road below, it of course being on a hilltop surrounded by trees. 

From there I was interested in going to Vichy, and made my way there via Autun. In Autun I saw some walls from the Roman era, as well as medieval fortifications and structures. 

Apparently there is a motorcycle rally going on this weekend, and in Autun, there was a rally point. People kept trying to wave me in, and I should have dropped by to say hi. If I see one tomorrow, I will. 

I crossed the Loire at Digoin, and rode through mostly pastureland and forest. I seem to have left the big farms further north, and now I'm seeing mostly cattle, sheep, and horses. In one pasture, a large herd of horses started running along the fence, the reason for which eluded me until I reached the far end of the field and finally saw two women walking out into the field to meet the horses. Adjacent to the horse field was a pen with two donkeys and a mule. The donkeys reminded me of the attack burros in the pen outside Wimberley, Texas, which, the story goes, were let into the fields with the sheep flock to attack those pesky, marauding coyotes. (Personally, I think it was a tall tale.)

So after getting lost in Vichy, I made it to Abrest and called it a day. 1004 miles so far, at 48+ miles per gallon and one flat tire. Tomorrow I will start heading towards the Mediterranean and hope for better weather. And this is what camp looks like tonight:

Pretty sterile place, yes?  Bon soir. 

A Lulling Sound

The sound of rain falling gently on a tent is such a sweet, sweet sound. 

Cause of the Flat

As I suspected, the flat was caused by the failure of the tube repair done in Tok, Alaska two years ago. Yes, Romaniac, I should have changed out that tube a year ago. I am very embarrassed to say that I had forgotten about it until yesterday. 

This has all worked out very well, and I am grateful for that. 

Back on the Road

Thanks to Colleen, pictured with her first car, I was into town and at the garage before 9:30. 

She has promised to let me know the name of her winery, so we can buy from them. 

The garage owner took me to Moto Dynozor, 166 Route de Dijon,21200 Beaune, tel. 03 45 63 40 35, where the tires were changed out. The owner, Dyno, is a fantastic guy, speaks English as well as a few other languages, and has an excellent shop, not to mention an excellent helper/apprentice. Great people. 

It's done, and I am back at the campground doing laundry. I will leave some time tomorrow. I'm trying to think of a way I can take Colleen's car with me, but I think she is attached to it. 

 

 

Today's Adventure

Let's start towards the end of the day. I had just finished a several kilometer downhill stretch on a very narrow road with no shoulder and a steep drop off to the edge, crossed a narrow bridge onto Route de Bouilland on my way to Les Premier Pres Campground near Savigny-lés-Beaune, when the bike started going nuts and the rear end started to kick out. Whoops!

It's that pesky rear tire again!  So flat by the time I got it under control and rolled to a stop it was off the rim. 

I started to unload it, because it was in a very dangerous place (no shoulder, against a guard rail, etc.), when the nicest young woman cycling by stopped to inquire. Colleen, from Toronto, inquired first in French and then in English (both of which are better than mine, if I needed for her to make a call for me. Boy, did I ever!

After several calls, Colleen arranged for a tow truck to come pick me and the bike up. She is perhaps the best person ever. She continued her ride, and on her way back, stopped again and translated for the tow truck driver. Then she offered to give me a ride into town tomorrow to the garage where the bike is. She and her husband have started a winery here, and when I learn the name, I will post it here and each and every reader of this entry must buy a case of their wine. Maybe I can buy some to be used for communion at All Saints!  Father Elliot will like it I'm sure. 

This morning I spent walking around in Langres, a beautiful old walled city with the walls largely remaining.  That's where I had the tuna fish and fried egg pizza last night. I camped near this tower. 

In fact, the photo was taken from my tent. 

I then rode to the Fontenay Abbey where I spent an hour or so just walking the grounds. While I was in the church (which is totally vacant and empty) someone played a Gregorian chant over a sound system. I closed my eyes and it seemed as though centuries melted away, and I was listening to the monks. It was very peaceful. 

Colleen asked me if I had plans for where I would go and where I would stay each night. I told her no, I just said a prayer each morning asking God to guide me. That has been working so well and each place has been a delight. I am well cared for. 

This campground is another example. Very clean, well cared for, and nice owners. I hope they do well for many years to come. 

La Belle France

Just a note to let you know I am alive. Fantastic riding out of Germany, through Luxembourg and into France. Some rain yesterday. If you followed the tracks, you saw me riding in circles looking for a place to stay. I did, a funky place about which I will write later. 

I am in a pizza joint in Langres, and they have free wifi which I am using to get this out. Right now it smells like it's on fire. . .

Finding gas and food is more difficult here so far than in Germany, and the language barrier is greater. Navigation is better today now that I've figured out their signage. Their Rue Nationale are better than the B roads in Germany, too. 

One more thing before I get back to my tuna fish and fried egg pizza (how in the world did I order that? It's okay, but what the ?), and that is this:  riding a motorcycle brings the world through which in very close contact with each of your senses. In the country through which I've been riding, are many herds of cattle, the "output" which the farmers use to fertilize their fields. The odor kept reminding me of some thing in my past. Then I remembered: there are so many bulls in the herds that it smells just like a courtroom!

Bon soir!

On The Road

Finally some sunshine. And a bike that is ready to ride. 

And I'm off. 

Camping In Bremen Another Day

The bike is just not sorted out. Some things have to be done just to make the journey easier, and I would rather have them done now than along the way. Nothing major, just several small things. 

Perhaps I could have done them all this morning if the weather would cooperate, but it won't. It started sprinkling yesterday as I drove out of the warehouse. During the night it rained, and the wind came up. Today it has been hard showers off and on. I can only get about half an hour of work in before I have to put the tools away and seek shelter. 

I hope to get it wrapped up this afternoon and then do all my laundry. After that, a hot shower and a good night's sleep. 

I Have The Bike

This has been an interesting day. Customs would not accept my liability insurance papers, insisting that it must be German. So €105 in fees, two and a half hours, plus €60 in cab fare, I was back at Customs. 45 minutes later I had my papers. At 3:40 I was able to walk to the bike. At 7:20 I was on the road. 

The bike did not want to go back together easily. Every thing had to be tugged and persuaded and it was just a long dirty struggle. And someone decided to drain all the gas, even though the shipper allowed 1 gallon in it. So after getting gas, and reconnecting the battery, it fired right up. Sounded beautiful. 

Loading it was an issue, as I haven't really sorted that all out. I kind of look like Jed Clampett of the Beverly Hillbillies driving down the road. 

Pretty funny looking, yes?

It is all put away for the night, and I'm waiting for some food. I look forward to some riding now. 

Wonderful Hertz

These are two of the wonderful people at Hertz, Miriam and Claudia, who kept on helping me when I needed it most:

Thank you Hertz!!

It's All Good

I scoped out the location of the Custom Office, and the warehouse. This is my reward. 

Everything seems so much better with apple cake and a coffee. Yes?

Customs Clearance

I did not receive a response to my email concerning the Customs Office, so after extending my Hertz Rental (they know my name when I walk in now), I drove over to Pangea to see what was happening, and if I needed to do anything. 

It turns out that I am now responsible for customs clearance. This could be quick, or it could take time. No way to tell at this point. So I will go do a drive by to identify the locations for tomorrow. 

I'm sitting outside on a park bench outside Pangea while writing this. The Bremen University has a branch campus for arts, design, music, etc. about 50 meters away. Apparently I look unusual, as some people have stopped to talk. They are all amazed that I am waiting for a motorcycle, and my trip plans. Sometimes I'm amazed, too. 

At least the weather is nice, so I am going to find a place to walk and enjoy it. Or sit and enjoy it. It has been observed that I am a better sitter than a walker. 

Bremen, The Tour

It was wet, windy, and cold when I finished breakfast, but the forecast was for clearing and sunshine. I decided to visit the old town of Bremen. 

Those who are uptodate on German Fairy Tales recall the story of The Musicians of Bremen. Here they are. 

Right outside the door to the Rathaus. 

Another side of said Rathaus with the church behind it. 

By the way, the sun did not come out. The Itsy Bitsy Spider never made it back up the waterspout. 

I became fascinated with the doors. Here are a few. 

And my favorite:

The churches have decorations on the buildings. Since we are near Easter, here are two of the crucifixion of Christ. 

There is major renovation going on downtown. The new sits side by side with the old. On the edge of the Marketplatz, upon which the Rathaus and Church sit, are a Starbucks and a McDonald's. Not too far away is a Subway. 

When I left, I was relying on Mr. Garmin to help me clear the old town area. Instead, he took me down the trolley tracks. Whoops!  I yelled "J'suis Americain!" Out the window, thereby blaming it on the French. They're good for it. . .

The Bike Is Still In Hamburg

It is now due to arrive here at 8:00 April 17. I am told I may pick it up between 1:00 and 2:00 that day, but only if it has cleared customs. 

I sent an email about that, but haven't heard back yet. That means I will have to drive down to the docks again to talk to the guy. But only after I go to Hertz and extend the car one more day. 

But one day closer to the adventure (if we're not already in it)!

My only actual concern is that this Friday is Good Friday, which many people take as a holiday here, and the roads will be crowded. My highest rated risk on this trip is other drivers. I had hoped to start in mid-week so I could get to a less populated area for Easter weekend. That's not going to happen now, so I'll make some lemonade instead. 

More tomorrow as we drag closer to the inevitable moment when Customs and the shipping company are forced to relinquish the bike to me. Keep in mind that I have to put it back together by myself, and probably jump start it as the battery will be deader than a rock. 

Update on the Bike

The bike is here and waiting to clear Customs. I think we have convinced Customs that I am not importing the bike. That is quite a relief. Moreover, the total port fees here were only €170.00, which I promptly paid in cash with a smile and hearty "Thank you, it was a pleasure doing business with you."  I had expected to be charged in the neighborhood of €470.00, so the savings were good. 

The weather here today has been rain, hail, wind, then sun. Apparently this is the normal weather pattern here for this time of year. It discourages sightseeing though. I did drive to Hamburg today to the Touratech store. I bought a gas container (they're not cans anymore) and a few more maps. I refrained from going overboard, though, as I'm still trying to keep weight off the bike. 

And so I wait. Until I get an email that the bike can be picked up, there is nothing I can do. Fortunately, I have my Kindle. That and an almost comfortable chair in my room. Could be worse though, I could be in a tent on the steppes in Kazakhstan. 

I can also get some study time in. Looks like the Ukraine is not going to be an option on the way back, but I still may try. Belarus is definitely out because I'm not going to play their visa game. Just wait and see, I suppose. Maybe if I could get journalist credentials?  Do you think the Alaska  Dispatch would like a war correspondent? Maybe KTTU?  I could do iPhone video selfies!  

Today in Bremen

Not much happened. It was raining when I got up, but merely foggy after breakfast. I also had an email waiting for me when I awakened. It was from David Berghof of STANtours informing me that Kazakhstan wanted a copy of my international driver's license. So I had to scan 3 additional pages of it and email them all to him. That was not a problem thanks to the efficient staff here at the hotel, and all was accomplished within 20 minutes after breakfast. 

Since it was still foggy, I put on my hat and leather riding jacket and went for a long walk through the park or greenbelt adjacent to the hotel. I confirmed on this walk that Germans do not like to be greeted while walking. Even smiling at them seems to make them uncomfortable. On the way back, I stopped at the McCafe (McDonalds is even more efficient here than at home, not to mention cleaner) across the street from the hotel and had a coffee and read for awhile. 

After recaffinating, I walked to the local nature preserve and saw some geese and swans, and dodged skinny men in tights on bicycles. Men in tights always make me skittish (sorry, Mark), and today it was with sound reason. Apparently I was supposed to stay off the path. . .

After returning to the hotel, the sun came out. I decided to drive to the Rhododendron Botanical Garden. It is fairly large, but still early in the year, so not many plants were blooming. They did have a heck of a display of azealeas in the hot house though. They also had a smelly sheep with two lambs out back for the kids to look at (one little boy was absolutely terrified, probably because of the smell), as well as pens of chickens, geese, and BIG flop eared rabbits. There were also some chicken eggs hatching in an incubator, which drew a great deal of attention. 

After several hours there, I returned to the hotel and read. I also determined that the Hoescht Express, the ship on which the container holding my bike had been loaded, was alongside the dock in Hamberg. Perhaps the bike is finally in Germany, three months after it left my garage. 

That's what it looks like in case you've forgotten. I have. It seems smaller than I remember. Hmm. Is it going to make it?

And that is pretty much the day. Except for seeing two Porsche 356, a Citroën  2CV6, a Citroën DB5 or 6 convertible, and a 2 stroke Vespa like mine. Oh, and two Cadillac convertibles, a '63 and a '62. Great car country here. 

Bremen

I'm in Bremen, waiting for the motorcycle. I went to the shipping agent today, and they told me maybe this weekend the ship will arrive, and maybe I can get the bike on Wednesday. But only if Schumacher releases the hold they have on it. 

So I emailed Schumacher to ask what is going on, but they are 10 hours behind so I won't hear from them for several more hours. And of course, the person I need is on vacation until Tuesday. It is anybody's guess when I will ever get the bike released. 

But the good news is I have the Russian and Tajikistan visas, and the application is with Uzbekistan now. After that is Kazakhstan and I think that is the last one. 

The other good news is that I stopped in at Hertz to get the car rental extended. I was helped by a great guy, I think his name is Martin, and got it extended without any problems. It was a very pleasant transaction. I've found the individuals I've met and interacted with to be quite nice. Their English is certainly better than my 14 words of German. 

I will be staying in Bremen until I get the bike so I can deal with the details as they arise. And they will surely arise. That's okay, I have time to deal with them. I hope I have the patience as well. 

Land Navigation

I was promoted to Private First Class at the end of infantry training because I led my fire team through both the day and night compass courses into first place for the company. I must say that was easier than navigating on the roads in Germany. 

I use Mr. Garmin to get to addresses, or if I want to meander off the highway. To meander, I set the "avoidance" instructions to avoid highways. And boy, does it avoid them. However, on the roads it chooses there are seldom any large trucks, the speed limits are lower, and the routes are into the countryside. Of course you still pass through little villages every few kilometers, but that is fine, as you get to see the homes and the gardens along the way. 

I will note that there is no avoidance setup feature to stay away from nuclear power plants, and Mr. Garmin took me on three of four sides of one yesterday. Did you know that there is a ladder on the outside of the cooling towers to take you all the way to the top?  No wines they have big fences with barbed wire to keep people out, because who wouldn't want to climb straight up in the air a few hundred feet on a sheer concrete wall?

The last few days I've just been wandering towards Bremen, as I need to talk to the shipping agent here. So Mr. Garmin has taken me the long way. The fields have flattened out the further north I've come, but they are still as lovely. I've seen a lot of fields planted in mustard, and those fields are in various shades of yellow as the plants blossom and bloom. The yellow against the green rye and other grasses is beautiful, as is the contrast with the dark tilled soil waiting for planting or growth. A very few fields have the stubble from last year's harvested crops, and I've seen pheasant and other birds walking in those fields and eating. 

The hilltops are mostly left to woodlands, with the deciduous trees just starting to leaf out. The darker evergreens hold their own, and in the Harz Mountains I saw some pines. Down lower, fruit trees are blossoming in the warmer areas, and the bright yellow of the forsythia is everywhere. 

Homes and businesses alike have planted petunias and other annuals, and daffodils and tulips brighten gardens and roadsides. 

Along just about every road there are bike and walking paths, and they are used by young and old. Yesterday I saw a woman who looked as though she was in her 80's walking towards a town about a kilometer away, purse on her arm, but with no scarf or hat. She looked like my grandmother, minus 100 pounds or more. 

These rural roads are lined with trees on both sides as well. It is noteworthy that here in the northwestern part of the contry where I've been the last two days, the tree lined roads are the norm, but further south towards the Rhine and Mosel, it is not. I'm sure there must be a reason. 

When I don't use Mr. Garmin, I must rely on the maps and my tired old eyeballs. I've learned to pick out a route, and then I write down the route numbers and the major towns along the way. The German traffic signage is in relatively small font, with the route numbers smaller than the city names. They are hard for me to read, and the street names can only be read from a short distance away. So if I know the names of the towns I'm headed for, I can usually find my way. 

Having said that, I also keep in mind that I can always turn around and go back to where I lost my way. On some days it happens more often than others. But that is okay, I am not trying to set land speed records, I'm just trying to get to a general location. 

And I'm still enjoying seeing this countryside, but I really want to get to the Med. And I really really want to dump this rental car and get on the 650. 

More Delay

The bike is supposed to arrive now on Saturday, the 12th. That's a day late, but it also means that I probably won't be able to actually pick it up until Wednesday. There is also another issue with customs, so I'm going to try and figure that out on Friday. 

I hope it doesn't cost as much as they say it will cost. They want to charge me duty as though I'm importing it. That would run about 30%. I'm not liking that. Maybe I should have bought the thing a round trip ticket!

Catching Up

I drove up The Romantic Highway, stopping in Dinkelsbühl and Rothenburg, both of which are old walled cities with ongoing preservation efforts. Each deserves a day at least, but I only spent a few hours in each. I found a coffee house in the first with a one-eyed man, a lady who never quit talking, and a little dog that walked in with a half-pound rock and dropped it in his food dish. 

Also visited beautiful churches in each town. There was a craft fair going on in the first, with food on offer. I had a grilled brot on a bun while the little merry-go-round played oompah music. Nice. 

At the entrance to the first town, outside the walls, were these little gardens. I've seen them everywhere, a little place where city dwellers can grow food, and they all seem to have a little hut as well. Of course, I've also seen them with TV and Internet dishes. Don't have a picture. 

The Lutheran church in the second town had a relic, a drop of Christ's blood. Or I think that's what they said. It's on the center of the cross in the top center of this picture, if you can make it out. I may have missed it with this camera. 

During the day's driving, I learned the German word for detour. I've forgotten it now, but will always recognize it. It was everywhere, but I eked out a way, and arrived at Bad Morgantheim, and spent the night at a family hotel. 

To be more precise, a hotel designed for families. It was a fantastic place for kids and teenagers, and pretty good for parents and grand parents too. View from the room, across the valley to a castle ruin. 

The next day took me across the Fulda Gap, a geographic feature of which I had read during the Cold War. It reminded me of Kansas. Gentle hills, plowed and planted fields, very open landscape. It is the reason the US developed the Apach attack helicopter and the A-10 Warthog. 

I found a room at Zur Crone in the old town of Eschwege. The room was old fashioned, clean, with HOT water, and wi-fi, all for 29 euros including breakfast. 

How sweet is that? My room was the two windows to the right of the green umbrella, one floor up. 

While walking around the town, I came across this little swing, set in an arch beneath a porch on the river bank. Lucky kid. 

It is a nice little town. 

Today I drove through the Hartz or Harz Mountains. Had several detours again, what with closed tunnels and roads closed for repair. Lots of stops and turnarounds, but I was able to see what I wanted. And it took me to Goslar, a town which is a thousand years old. You need a good map and compass to get around. My iPhone really didn't help that much. 

So you are all caught up. Or just about. . .

Dachau

Behind this gate is the roll call area where the prisoners were counted when demanded by the guards and at the regular times. To the left stood the barracks, and there were rows and rows of them. Only the first row remains, and beyond that the foundations if the demolished barracks stretch out like the low curbs guarding graves in a vast cemetery. At the far end, are churches and memorials, all in grey like the gravel and foundations. All is grey or black or dark brown, except the green of the trees outside the barbed wire, and the green grass that covers the place where the inner guard trenches once were. 

After you walk past the foundations, cross the section of remaining trench, and pass through the fence to the old SS camp, you encounter a smallish brick building with a tall smoke stack. 

The crematorium is as the literature describe it. Prisoners entered from the left, and passed to the right, room by room to the ovens. The ovens are still stained with the remains of the murdered. 

My souls aches, and I can't explain how a person would not go insane treating other humans this way. 

Bodensee to the Castles

Last night I was sitting on a terrace at the Krone Am See Garden cafe, having dinner, looking out across the Bodensee at Switzerland, wondering how did a not very bright kid from Puyallup, Washington, make it to here. 

In any event, I drove up the Bodensee and got on the Deutsche Alpenstrasse, a narrow two lane (often only 1 1/2) road to see some of the Bavarian Alps. What I could see was quite lovely (green fields, dark woods, little hamlets similar to what Heidi lived near with her grandfather, and breathtaking views down into deep valleys), but it was overcast and foggy, so I couldn't see up into the mountain tops. What I could see, however, made up for it. 

After many kilometers of this, I decided I really should see the castles at Koniggsschlösse. You know, the one built by the Mad Bavarian (did you know he had a really bad haircut?  Look him up!) while he lived in another castle nearby. When I arrived, it was very crowded, do I ate lunch and took some pictures from below instead of taking the castle tours. The lines were long, and it was cold and windy. Besides, I fear that if I were to get too close, the magic would be gone. This is the one he built,

while he lived here. 

It was interesting that these two castles, which are very near each other, sit on relatively low crags right on the edge of the lowland plains. 

After visiting there, I drove off to see Weiskirchen, an absolutely stunning example of a late medieval church. Taking pictures inside is forbidden, if I got the Getman and pictograms right, but it is glorious. There are so many details that it would take me weeks to even note them all. But my eye was drawn to a silver lamb, high above the altar, in a niche of its own. 

It was about 3:00 then, and I decided to visit Dachau. 

Black Forest Open Air Museum

Today was all about the Black Forest and it's history. Leaving the Sonnenblick Hotel, about which I cannot say enough good things, I drove south through the Black Forest. The woods are pretty tame these days, but 2000 years ago humans had just started encroaching on the edges of the forest. Six hundred years later the Benedictine monks started moving deeper into the forest seeking solitude and establishing monasteries, which in turn drew settlers, and the forest became, for the most part, tamed. 

It is carefully tended now. Germans don't seem to have taken to clear-cutting. They thin and maintain. It's really beautiful. The area through which I drove became quite steep, and I saw one altitude sign of over 1000 meters. And of course some of the woods were clear cut to provide the farm land. So the woodlands and the open farmlands are interspersed, with the hamlets and villages in the valleys, on the sides of the hills. I thought it interesting that in the villages, the older houses are built on the hillsides, and the newer buildings are on the flatter lands that were tillable. 

Another interesting thing is that industry, manufacturing primarily, but timber as well, can be found in remote little valleys. I assume this must be because the rail system makes it easy to access both labor and raw materials, plus get their goods to market. 

The museum is a treasure with building dating back to the very early 1600's. The collection includes various types of farm buildings from different regions within the Black Forest. The buildings also have exhibits regarding how these people lived in the dates of the occupation of the buildings. 

Once again it is apparent that our ancestors were very hard working and innovative people. I think they smelled pretty bad though, because these houses didn't have any chimneys, and the animals lived there too. I was amazed at the American Homesteader's Museum, but this predates the American expansion by centuries. 

Yes, I have pictures, but no, I'm not posting them because of the narrow bandwidth I'm facing tonight. Instead, here is the little church across the road and down in the dell from the Sonnenblick. Built in 1762, its bells will charm you if you stay nearby. 

And here is the best way ever to stack your firewood. Ever. 

The Schloss

Heidelberg Castle is another tribute to wealth and labor. My absolute favorite part is the statuary of the various Electors, Princes, etc. who built and improved it. The statuary display the ample girth of each of them. They all seemed rather stout. 

The wine and beer kegs were next. 

Bad picture!

The ruins are spectacular. I have maybe 100 photos. Here are just a few. 

The portcullis. Those iron stakes are at least 8 inches square. 

This tomb is down in the area between the inner and outer walls. 

And so it goes. I took the funicular down to the town and walked about. It is worth a trip, and a stay at one of the downtown hotels.